Five West African Fashion Designers You Need to Know About
African fashion is always changing, full of creativity and new ideas. African designers are leading the way, mixing traditional styles with modern trends. They draw inspiration from African culture, creating clothes that are both unique and stylish. African fashion keeps surprising us, showing the world how diverse and exciting it can be. It’s not just a trend—it’s a dynamic force shaping the future of fashion.
Here are the 5 West African fashion designers who are making waves in the industry.
5. Banke Kuku
In 2019, Banke Kuku opened her Lagos boutique for women where she debuted her first womenswear and accessories collection. This was followed by the launch of her e-commerce store in 2020 and inclusion of childrenswear in 2021. Combined with local and international stockists and specialty retailers, it works in unison to bring her collections to a global audience.
Known for her unique take on luxury loungewear, Banke takes inspiration from the cultural of her years spent in London and Lagos, which has heavily influenced her bold patterns, resulting in statement prints with captivating impact. Banke Kuku’s designs have been featured in leading publications around the world, including Stylist Magazine, where she was described as one of the best modern female fashion designers, to Vogue, Marie Claire UK, and Gold Times. She received the Eko 100 Women Award in 2021 for her “unending commitment to a more equal and equitable world.”
The designer was invited to host a pop-up at the prestigious Soho House in London, 2021; the sold-out event was described as one of their most successful fashion pop- up yet. The launch of the “Jungle Fever” collection attracted interest from online retailer Moda Operandi and was selected to showcase at Dubai Expo 2020 with Arise Fashion Week, where her designs were worn by top models Alton Mason and Naomi Campbell.
In 2022, Banke Kuku became the first Nigerian designer to be stocked at Galeries Lafayette Doha. The groundbreaking trajectory of the brand led to a global, dynamic partnership between Banke Kuku and A-List actress Gabrielle Union. Developed as a celebration of both Banke Kuku’s and Gabrielle Union’s combined impact on fashion and greater culture, the capsule collection was released in October 2022. The collection was first previewed at Lagos Fashion Week, alongside the highly anticipated Spring Summer 2022 collection which has been featured in Vogue Business, The Citizen and WWD.
4. Lisa Folawiyo
Lisa Folawiyo is celebrated for her colourful collections that fuse traditional West African fabrics with modern tailoring and beaded embellishments. Since starting her label in 2005, Folawiyo has spearheaded the movement of Nigerian designers achieving international recognition for their work. She has a knack for elevating traditional African prints above the status quo, making them relevant for a global audience. She has showrooms in both Nigeria and New York and her collections are stocked in the UK, the US, South Africa and Nigeria itself.
In 2012, Folawiyo won the African Fashion Awards, nominated alongside Maki Oh and Kofi Ansah, two more prolific designers from the Nigerian fashion scene. Championed by Vogue Italia, Folawiyo has also partnered with L’Oréal and done a trunk show on Moda Operandi. Her line is stocked in Selfridges.
The Lisa Folawiyo brand has shown collections on international platforms in Lagos, Johannesburg, London, Paris, Milan and New York, as well as been featured in publications such as international editions of Vogue, The New York Times, Harper’s Bazaar and Elle. The brand counts with various diffusion lines including The J Label and Pretty Precious. The brand is stocked at MatchesFashion, Moda Operandi, Temple Muse, Shop McMullen, Industrie Africa and Aby Concept.
Having originally trained as a lawyer, Folawiyo came to fashion with no formal training. She founded her own line, Lisa Folawiyo — previously known as Jewel by Lisa — in 2005. Her collections are exclusively crafted from Ankara textiles; vibrant wax-resistant dyed fabrics characteristic of West Africa. “Our mothers, grandmothers and probably great-grandmothers have worn this fabric,” Folawiyo told the BBC. Her garments are embellished with beads, sequins and crystals all sewn by hand in local workshops in Nigeria. She attributes her success to finding and sticking to this unusual aesthetic.
3. Loza Maleombho
Established in New York City in 2009, Loza Maléombho relocated her eponymous footwear and accessories label to Côte d’Ivoire in 2012, where its entire production now takes place. Born in Brazil, but raised between Côte d’Ivoire and Maryland in the United States, Maléombho started designing at thirteen years old, making her own school uniforms as well as creations for her mother and grandmother.
The brand is best described as a fusion of traditional cultures and subcultures; an experimentation of the synergies between Ivorian tribal aesthetics and New York City’s urban style, a place where the designer gained plenty of experience in the fashion industry interning for major international designers like Jill Stuart, Yigal Azrouel and Cynthia Rowley. A celebration of the old and new, the designers’ silhouettes are both traditional and futuristic, Maléombho’s work having led her to become a celebrity and film favourite; in 2015, Solange tapped the designer as artistic director of a shoot for the singer’s Saint Heron label, while 2016 and 2020 saw her pieces worn by Beyoncé in her ‘Formation’ video and acclaimed visual composition, Black Is King.
Working with local artisans who’ve spent generations mastering their crafts, Maléombho’s forward thinking designs communicate their trade in a highly contemporary and original form. Her priority is hiring young women from disadvantaged backgrounds, offering them the opportunity to develop a valuable skill set and, ultimately, self-empowerment.
2. Maxhosa Africa
Maxhosa Africa is a South African knitwear brand founded in 2012 by Laduma Ngxokolo. Laduma Ngxokolo is an award-winning designer, entrepreneur, and creative artist. In 2010 he founded and created one of the most ground-breaking designer brands in the history of South Africa. Maxhosa Africa is globally recognized with invites to showcase on international platforms like the New York Fashion Week. Laduma’s pride and creativity reflect the intrinsic pieces he creates for Maxhosa Africa.
His initial vision was to create a modern Xhosa-inspired knitwear collection that would be suitable for this market. As a person who has undergone the process, Laduma felt that he had to develop premium knitwear that celebrates traditional Xhosa aesthetics.
Laduma’s design work has been displayed and archived in the SMITHSONIAN Museum and MOMA: Museum of Modern Art in New York, as well as in museums in Hamburg, Switzerland, and Berlin. He serves as an inspiration and one of the best-case studies of the evolution in African design. The authentic design, exceptional craftsmanship, and quality of MAXHOSA AFRICA garments make them stand out.
His designs capture the hearts of South Africans with their strong cultural links to his heritage. Laduma assumed ownership of his production facility, allowing a new narrative of business design.
- Gozel Green
Nigerian brand Gozel Green was founded by twin sisters Sylvia Enekwe- Ojei and Olivia Enekwe-Okoji in 2012. Their passion and drive to design clothing that would tell African stories in an unconventional, original and artistic way continues to drive every collection, design and creation. The brand targets women all over the world who are not afraid to stand out. The twins were tremendously influenced by their artistic parents. Growing up for them was as close as to nature as can be.
Having been featured in Elan Magazine in the year 2011, the brand was selected by Studio 53 Extra, alongside some of the Nigerian designers to showcase collections inspired by looks worn by the afro-beat legend, Fela Anikulapo Kuti.
Many celebrities and fashion icons have been spotted in Gozel Green pieces from Omotola Jalade Ekeinde, Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, Michelle Dede, Fade Ogunro, Eku Edewor, Toke Makinwa, Beverly Naya, Vimbai, Mo’chedda, Zara Okpara to several socialites.
Nigerian brand Gozel Green was founded by twin sisters Sylvia Enekwe- Ojei and Olivia Enekwe-Okoji in 2012. Their passion and drive to design clothing that would tell African stories in an unconventional, original and artistic way continues to drive every collection, design and creation. The brand targets women all over the world who are not afraid to stand out. The twins were tremendously influenced by their artistic parents. Growing up for them was as close as to nature as can be.
Having been featured in Elan Magazine in the year 2011, the brand was selected by Studio 53 Extra, alongside some of the Nigerian designers to showcase collections inspired by looks worn by the afro-beat legend, Fela Anikulapo Kuti.
Many celebrities and fashion icons have been spotted in Gozel Green pieces from Omotola Jalade Ekeinde, Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie, Michelle Dede, Fade Ogunro, Eku Edewor, Toke Makinwa, Beverly Naya, Vimbai, Mo’chedda, Zara Okpara to several socialites.